You want to buy a suit?! What are you, a glutton for punishment? It's not like suits are extra-comfortable or make some great individualistic fashion statement. They make statements like, "Hello, I'm willing to conform," "I belong to the status quo," or even "I want to make a lot of money, and I'm willing to wear this suit." We're talking about a garment that has remained essentially unchanged since the mid 19th century, when the lounge suit was popular with the working man, and the more formal frock coat with trousers would suit your dandy, idle rich, or "man about town." Take our advice: stick to jeans and T-shirts. Leave suits to lawyers (get it? "law suits"?... we'll wait...).
But now that we have returned from our La-la Land rant (and our bad puns), we can tell you that every man should own at least one nice suit. Whether you need one just for weddings and funerals or are working in an industry which still requires business attire, suits make people take you seriously. So read on, friend, and we will help you navigate this sartorial minefield with confidence and ease. One note: this SYW is both for people buying their first suit without Mommy's help and for those who already own a complete wardrobe, but we'll be focusing on the needs of the first-time purchaser.
1. CHOOSE A FABRIC
When suit-makers make a suit, the first thing they start with is the fabric, so we'll do the same. It may seem to you when you walk into a men's wear store that all fabrics look alike, but you'd be wrong. Each fabric is different in terms of quality, durability, feel, and price. The main message we want to impart to you is this: you must buy wool. Only wool. 100% wool. But for the sake of greater knowledge, here is a full list of potential choices:- The non-wools
- The wools
The non-wools
Linen – Okay, Panama Jack, you look at the linen, you think it's nice, it's lightweight, it'll be a bit different from everyone else… but don't be fooled. The style will be the same, because that's what suits are all about. But as a fabric goes, linen wrinkles quickly, stains like a bitch, does not travel well, and is not a classic look. Be warned that your dry cleaning bills will be quintupled. (That means five times more expensive.) It is not acceptable for a first suit. It is acceptable for a first tablecloth.
Polyester – The 70's are over, bub. Polyester had its time, and that time is over. It doesn't wrinkle, but it also doesn't breathe. And it's just not natural. It's made from chemicals and urthelene and polythene and whatnot. Polyester's okay in a blend with wool if you're trying to keep your costs down, but more on that later.
Microfiber – Just another word for polyester. It's not for you.
Teflon – Just another word for microfiber. Let's leave teflon to the frying pans, okay?
The wools
Now you're talking. Wool is the fabric of choice for a good suit. It's natural, it breathes well, it's durable, and it's also stylish as hell. There are four main kinds of wool out there, as follows:
Tweed – Tweed is a very heavy wool fabric, popular in places like Scotland, where it's cold as a witch's tit (no offense to the wicca religion or its ectothermic following). The average wearer of tweed is in his 50's, gray-bearded, and favors pipe-smoking by the hearth. He is most likely a professor, or a literary critic (possibly both). Stay away from tweed, especially if you're losing the battle of the bulge. Tweed is not the larger man's friend.
Flannel – The heaviest of the non-tweed, flannel is made corded wools. It's durable, very hard-wearing, and especially nice in a charcoal gray with classic pinstripes. However, most people wear flannel as pajamas or long underwear. For a suit, it might be a bit too hot in most office environments. While nice, it's not an ideal fabric for a first suit.
Tropical – This is usually a kind of wool crepe, which is a lightweight (usually light-colored) fabric. It's more of a summer weight, the sort favored by Don Johnson on Miami Vice. Being lighter, it is also more susceptible to wrinkles, and therefore more frequent dry-cleaning (see above re: bill quintupling). Also not an ideal fabric for a first suit.
Worsted – The worsted wools are your best bet for a first suit. These will be your gabardines or mid-weight corded wools. They are durable, hard-wearing, and usually fine for year-round wear. They can be a little lighter or heavier, depending on the weave, but consider them the mid-weights. Ask for them by name.
You might come across a suit that is advertised as a "high-twist," 100, or Super 110. These are not car races. This just means that the suit is made of a worsted wool yarn that has been twisted more often than the usual 60-80 twist fabrics. This makes it a finer cloth of a somewhat lighter weight. Such suits would be perfectly fine, therefore, for spring, summer, and fall, but might not carry you through the winter. In this case, we urge you to consider the local climate when making purchasing decisions.
The mid-weights are best overall, especially with the usual "air-conditioned-car-ride-into-the-air-conditioned-office" venture that most people have in summer. And if you will be visiting a lot of clients or doing hefty traveling, you will need this kind of durable fabric which will stand up to the extra wear, but not be too hot.
2. CHOOSE A STYLE
Suits come in many different styles. This stinks, because it means that you have to make… (*shudder*)… decisions. Generally, your first suit should:- be single-breasted (the jacket simply buttons instead of folding over itself in the front)
- be navy or dark blue
- be a solid (no pinstripes or wacky plaids)
- have two or three buttons on the jacket
Your pants, you can wear however you like them (preferably on your legs). This is the classic, conservative style, and is your ideal first suit. It will work in any situation. But for more in depth advice, here are some notes each of the various parts of a suit.
- The cut
- The jacket
- The pants
- The shirt & tie
The cut
The "cut" of a suit refers to how the suit generally hangs off your body. There are three general cuts: (1) The American cut- the industry standard, middle of the road suit cut. This is basically the normal type of suit you see people wearing., and should be your choice of cut for your first suit. (2) The full cut- this kind of suit is not tapered at the waist, so it tends to hang straight down and allow more room at the waist. This cut is often preferred by fuller-figured men, complete with the two vents mentioned below (see jackets below). This is more the classic look which would be acceptable for a first suit. (3) The European cut- this one tapers at the waist, for a trim, fit look. Before buying a suit with a European cut, make sure you are trim and fit and not planning to gain weight.
The jacket
When buying a jacket, the tailor will pinch and poke you all over the place. The tailor generally will know what he's doing, but he will often ask you what different looks you prefer. In such a situation, use the information below:
Collar – should hug the back of the neck without buckling or pulling; a _ inch of your shirt collar should show at the back.
Shoulder Pads – they help the suit to hang properly, make you look more muscular than you probably are, and make for a more slender look overall.
Lapels – you need them, because Don Johnson you ain't and the 80's are over; high or low notch is okay as long as they lay flat on your chest, aren't too big, and don't buckle. Look for lots of stitches around the outside which are as close to invisible as possible.
Arms and sleeves – should end at the point where your hands meet your wrists and show a quarter inch of your shirt sleeve; make sure that you don't feel like you're wearing a straight jacket and that you have free movement of your arms. As a test, bring your arms out straight in front of you, and try sitting in a chair and pretending you're writing or eating. You should always be comfortable.
Buttons – two or three are okay, but always leave the bottom one undone. If you have an athletic build, a low button stance (lower down the suit front, below the lapels) is best, and if you're more of a portly fellow, the high button stance (above the beer belly, below the lapels) is best.
Vests – don't bother with one of these unless you're a CEO or really cold all the time. These are for advanced suit-wearers only.
Vents – these are in the flap of cloth below the waist at the back and should cover your ass; one, two, or none (slits or vents) are okay, but remember that the larger-assed among us should take two vents, and the flat or skinny-assed should choose no vents; either way, the jacket should still fit properly and not stretch out over this part of our anatomy — be honest with yourself about sizing.
The pants
Waist – a common fallacy is that if you make the waist as tight as possible, it'll squish your stomach in and make you look skinny. Wrong. It'll give you gas, keep you in constant pain, and make you look stupid when you unbutton your jacket. Just make sure that the waistline is comfortable and that you can always stick two fingers into the waist while you're wearing them. Also, don't hike your pants up too high. You're not Urkel.
Pleats – okay with or without. They are recommended, again, for those of a fuller abdomen, while discouraged for those who are extremely thin.
Cuffs – these help the pants to hang properly by providing a little weight at the bottom. They look better on someone with long legs, so the shorter man should definitely avoid them. Everyone else should stick to a maximum 1" cuff for best effect.
Accessories – Your belt must match your shoes, and leather is the preferred material. Your shoes should also be leather. As for color, you usually can't go wrong with black. Your socks should match your pants, and they must be dress socks. No thick black tube socks.
The shirt & tie
A shirt and tie? Yeah, they're part of a suit, Einstein. The bare chest thing is not a good look. We don't care what kind of hunk you think you are, only the wrong kind of employer would be interested in seeing that. So you're going to need a shirt and tie, and preferably several of each. But what kinds to buy?
You will want to have a selection of plain white and blue shirts. A button-down collar dresses you down, so you have to decide how formal your office is and buy accordingly. After you have a few plain shirts, you could mix it up with some shirts of the same colors, but now with some thin stripes or small, conservative checks. Beware the "striped shirt, striped tie, and pinstripes" look, however.
Ties should match, and that's all we can tell you. If you're not sure, this will be a place where a knowledgeable salesperson will be indispensable. Remember that many men are colorblind, and this is nothing to be ashamed of. You should have a selection of ties for rotation, some of which match more than one suit or jacket. This will help provide an assortment of different looks, and avoid messy gossip about where you're sleeping when you come in wearing the same exact outfit two days in a row.
The latest style in suits seems to be leaning towards a more slender pant leg with no cuffs, moving away from pleats, and having three buttons on the jacket. This is all fine, as long as the overall look of the suit is conservative, not trendy. Three button jackets, although recently "rediscovered" thanks to Frasier and his ilk, are a classic look, and will not necessarily be out of style in a year's time. They will endure.
3. FIND A STORE
You could just go to the mall and walk around, see what happens. Maybe you'll hit on the perfect salesperson, the right price, and the right suit, all on the first try. But most people aren't this lucky. To find a good store, ask for a referral from friends and co-workers who you think dress well. Maybe approach him and say "Wow, that's a great suit… where'd you get it?" Believe us, he'll be happy to tell you. You might even ask someone on the street who you think looks damn good. Do not ask your father — unless you want to dress like your father (see the section on "tweed" above).
But whether you end up at "Hugo Boss" or "That Suit Place" really depends on your budget. You don't have to spend a lot of money to get a good suit. You should be able to manage this for a couple hundred bucks and up. If you, because of your financial situation (loser), need to pay less than $200, you could consider a wool and polyester blend to keep your costs down. Or just go with the full-on polyester, flame-retardant, $99 special. But we consider a suit to be an investment, and suggest that you go with one that, while affordable, looks damn good. As a general rule, be prepared to spend a minimum of $300 on a suit.
There are certain grades of quality that will also, of necessity, factor into the price. These are mostly things you can look for, such as invisible stitching, fine or higher twist yarn, tailoring that just looks sharp, and lining in the pants, etc.
In any case, be prepared to invest your time as well as your money in your suit purchase. You should wear a dress shirt and shoes to the store so that you'll get an accurate idea of how it will look when worn properly. (A pair of AJ's and a Bulls t-shirt will not provide this effect.) Try on a very expensive suit first, just to get an idea of how a really good suit looks, how it hangs, and the feel of the fabric. Then break the news about your budget to the salesperson. He will cry. You will laugh.
Which brings up another good point: a friendly, knowledgeable salesperson will be a tremendous help in finding your ideal suit. This is why the referral is so critical. You're going to be spending quite a bit of time with him or her, and will probably end up relying on his or her opinion a great deal. And it's important that (s)he is able to retain a sense of humor when replacing the really expensive suit on the rack. Your salesperson should also have definite opinions (as opposed to simply telling you "whatever you like"), because if (s)he is knowledgeable about current fashion trends, (s)he will be able to steer you away from disasters.
Be honest with the salesperson when you don't like something or if it feels uncomfortable. If you're on the big or tall side, it might mean that you have to go to a "big and tall" store. Unfortunately, "big and tall" stores will also have bigger, taller prices… a sad but true fact.
Keep your eyes open for sales, and don't be afraid to try custom tailoring (when a suit is specifically made for you, as opposed to simply being tailored). This goes for you Joe Averages as well. There is nothing like the fit of a custom suit, because it was made to fit only you (duh). Phone around for quotes, and compare the price. It could probably be had for less than $500, including the material.
Some popular men's stores include Today's Man and The Men's Warehouse. But again, we advise that you ask a well-dressed friend.
4. GET FITTED PROPERLY
Just because you're shopping "off the rack" doesn't mean that you shouldn't have a well-fitting suit. This is extremely important, because if your suit doesn't fit right, you'll look awful and all of your money will be completely wasted. You should expect your friendly salesperson to take all your measurements: neck, shoulders, sleeves, chest, waist, inseam, as well as calculating the mysterious "drop measure." (Don't ask.) Then they can start showing you a suit. Don't let them give you the old, "42 tall? What color you want?" Have them measure you FIRST, and show you suits SECOND.
Any part of the suit that doesn't fit exactly right, you should expect that they will alter it. This will probably cost you a few bucks, unless you're buying a really expensive suit, in which case it'll cost you a few bucks x 10. Be sure to ask who does their tailoring, and if they just farm it out to "Stitches ‘R Us" in the mall or a dry cleaner, take the suit with you and have it altered elsewhere. Again, get a recommendation from a friend, or a co-worker, or Pierce Brosnan, whoever you run into first. If the store has an in-house tailor, you should be okay, especially if the store was a recommendation in the first place.
Are you starting to get a feel for the importance of Step 3, now?
5. BUILD THAT WARDROBE
How many suits should you have? At least three is ideal. This allows you to have one at the cleaners and two remaining in the rotation. We've already mentioned that your first suit should be solid navy, single-breasted (or double breasted if you're large). Your second suit should be solid charcoal or "oxford" gray, also single-breasted. It's important to start off conservative but versatile, and these are the two best bets. These will be your perfect interview, important meeting, or confidence-required suits.For a third suit, it's okay to be a little less conservative, with a mid-blue or gray, or even olive colored ensemble. You might also want to choose a pinstripe or "banker's stripe" (a little thicker) at this point, as well as a double-breasted jacket. You could also look at a heavier (Flannel) or lighter (Tropical) wool, as mentioned previously. All of these are acceptable options for a third or fourth suit. These will be your typical day at the office suits, part of your rotation, comfortable, and not so formal as the alpha and beta suits.
From there, you can pretty much do what you like. You've got the basics at this point, and can't go too far wrong. You can try things like bow ties or suspenders (not necessarily at the same time, Elmer Fudd) or even a pocket puff (pronounced "poofter" in Australia, or "hanky" in the US). These kinds of accessories should be tied together, color-wise, but do not have them match exactly. Think complementary, not anal-retentive to the last detail. Next thing you know, you'll be matching your shoelaces to your tie.
You can also go with a classic navy blazer (a staple of any man's wardrobe) as well as another sports jacket, and get three pairs of wool slacks that you could rotate with the two jackets. But you should never mix and match suit jackets and suit slacks. Suits are meant to be worn as a complete set, and you'll look like a dork. The above options and a number of versatile ties will give you a solid five-day rotation for the workweek.
Be sure to take good care of your clothes, and you will extend their life expectancy as well as keep them looking great. You should have wooden hangers and a clothes brush for home care, and dry clean on a regular basis, maybe every 3 months. This should answer all the requirements of your professional livery. At least until your new wardrobe starts winning you the salary you've been shooting for all along…
