When buying a jacket, the tailor will pinch and poke you all over the place. The tailor generally will know what he's doing, but he will often ask you what different looks you prefer. In such a situation, use the information below:
Collar - should hug the back of the neck without buckling or pulling; an inch of your shirt collar should show at the back.
Shoulder Pads - they help the suit to hang properly, make you look more muscular than you probably are, and make for a more slender look overall.
Lapels -high or low notch is okay as long as they lay flat on your chest, aren't too big, and don't buckle. Look for lots of stitches around the outside which are as close to invisible as possible.
Arms and sleeves - should end at the point where your hands meet your wrists and show a quarter inch of your shirt sleeve; make sure that you don't feel like you're wearing a straight jacket and that you have free movement of your arms. As a test, bring your arms out straight in front of you, and try sitting in a chair and pretending you're writing or eating. You should always be comfortable.
Buttons - two or three are okay, but always leave the bottom one undone. If you have an athletic build, a low button stance (lower down the suit front, below the lapels) is best, and if you're more of a portly fellow, the high button stance (above the beer belly, below the lapels) is best.
Vests - don't bother with one of these unless you're a CEO or really cold all the time. These are for advanced suit-wearers only.
Vents - these are in the flap of cloth below the waist at the back and should cover your ass; one, two, or none (slits or vents) are okay, but remember that the larger-assed among us should take two vents, and the flat or skinny-assed should choose no vents; either way, the jacket should still fit properly and not stretch out over this part of our anatomy - be honest with yourself about sizing.
SoYouWanna know more? Check out our full-length article SYW buy a men's suit?
