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Sewing Machine Needles: Which One for What?
by Deborah H. Schreiben
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Overview
Using the wrong needle in your sewing machine is a common cause of stitch-related issues. Not only can the incorrect needle size or type produce poor-quality seams and decorative stitches, but it also can snag and ruin the fabric you are sewing--or damage your sewing machine. Because the tips of sewing machine needles wear out with use, it is important to start your project with a new needle of the appropriate size and type.
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Needle Sizes
Sewing machine needles manufactured for the United States are sized by numbers ranging from eight to 19, with the size of the needle increasing as the numbers become larger. European needles are sized from 60 to 120, and the numbers are paired with U.S. needle numbers. Therefore, needles often are packaged and printed with sizes that refer to both European and U.S. sizes. A package listed as 60/8 contains a needle that is size eight by U.S. standards and size 60 in Europe.
When determining which size needle to use, first consider the weight of the fabric you will be sewing. Use a size eight or nine needle for very lightweight or sheer fabrics such as organdy, taffeta and chiffon. Choose a size 10 to 12 needle for medium-weight fabrics such as gingham, linen or Lycra. A size 14 needle works well for lightweight wool, corduroy and suiting fabrics. Jump up to a size 16 for heavy fabrics such as denim and vinyl. Reserve sizes 18 and 19 for very heavy fabrics such as canvas or multiple layers of denim.
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Types of Tips
In addition to determining the needle size, you must consider the needle type. The most common needles are standard point, ballpoint and universal. Standard point needles have sharp tips and are appropriate for sewing woven fabrics that do not stretch. A ballpoint needle should be used on knits, as it has a slightly rounded tip that pushes the fabric apart to pass through it rather than piercing it. A universal needle, as its name suggests, can be used for either knits or woven fabric. A universal needle is a cross between a standard point and a ballpoint, with a tip that pierces that fabric but does so with a slightly rounded tip.
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Specialty Needles
For sewing natural leather, use a needle made just for this. Leather needles do not have a round, pointed tip like other needles. A leather needle's tip is slightly flattened to cut through the leather like a tiny blade.
Twin or triple needles are great for decorative topstitching. The needles have one shaft that is inserted into your machine like a normal needle, but are formed in a T-shape from which two or three needles extend downward. Using a twin or triple needle saves time by allowing you to make one pass over an area rather than two or three, and also produces perfectly spaced, parallel stitching lines.
If you have trouble threading needles because of poor eyesight or dexterity issues, consider buying self-threading needles. Rather than forcing you to try to poke thread through a tiny hole, self-threading needles allow you to slip the thread through a notch on the side of the needle's eye. Be aware, though, that these needles might snag knit fabrics.
