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How to Lay Laminate Hardwood Floors
by Kristian Partington
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Overview
In recent years there has been an explosion of opportunity when it comes to installing new flooring to brighten and enhance your home. There is now an abundance of choice in the world of laminate flooring and this makes things easy and affordable for would-be home decorators. Laminate closely resembles wood yet costs considerably less and you need not be a flooring expert to install your new laminate floor. A few simple steps, some attention to detail and a fairly strong back and set of knees is all your require

Laminate provides the look of hardwood.
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Step 1
Prepare the surface you intend to lay the floor upon. Try to take as much time as you can to ensure that the surface is as flat as possible before beginning. Don't assume that the foam underlay will hide the imperfections of your base floor so it's a good idea to take a long straight-edge and work it around the surface of the floor to find dips and humps. On concrete floors you can use a self-leveling compound to fill any dips in the floor and if need be you can use a grinder to flatten out any major humps. Most other floors should be generally flat but wooden shims may be required here and there. Be sure to sweep the floor clean and allow any compound to dry completely before moving on to the next step.
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Step 2
Lay your foam underlay using packing tape or duct tape to attach each row at the sides. Make sure when you purchase your laminate you discuss the underlay with the salesperson. There are usually a few options depending on the type of laminate and the retailer should know best which type you require. When you spread the underlay out, be sure you don't overlap the joints, creating uneven seams. Also, make sure you have about 2 inches of excess underlay running up the walls.
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Step 3
Begin to lay your laminate flooring. Aesthetically, it is best to lay it lengthwise in the direction of the main light source in the room, so choose your direction and then begin in the upper left corner. Lay your first row of laminate with the groove-side against the wall, making sure to place your ¼ inch spacers on the end of each plank. This gap on every wall is known as the expansion gap and is required for all but the smallest of rooms. When you get to the final board in the row, flip it over end-for-end to mark where your cut will be, remembering the expansion gap. Use a square to mark the board and a handsaw to make your cut. The excess you've cut off can be used to start your next row as long as the piece is at least 12 inches long.
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Step 4
Connect the next row by angling the groove into the next board's tongue at a slight angle. When the edges are touching, gently lower the plank and the two should lock into place. It may take a few attempts to get the hang of it. Make sure that your seam is tight all the way along the planks---it is imperative that each row offers a tight seal or else the system won't work for the entire floor. Keep working your way along the rows, locking first the ends followed by the lengthwise seam. You may need a puller tool, which the laminate retailer should have available, to lock the final board in place on each row.
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Step 5
Cut off any excess underlay once the laminate is installed and put your trim in place.
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- Hammer
Pulling tool
Knife
Tape
1/4 inch spacers
Handsaw
Straight-edge
Square
- Hammer
- Pulling tool
- Knife
- Tape
- 1/4 inch spacers
- Handsaw
- Straight-edge
- Square
- Be sure to let your laminate sit in the house at room temperature for 48 hours before installation.
This article is meant to be a guide. Be sure to read the manufacturer's directions before beginning.
- Be sure to let your laminate sit in the house at room temperature for 48 hours before installation.
- This article is meant to be a guide. Be sure to read the manufacturer's directions before beginning.